Daily Archives: August 30, 2013
La Colombe d’Or ~ Luncheon in the shadow of artists
Terrasse Restaurant La Colombe d’Or in Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Sometimes the spirit of a place is so strong that its influence sets the mood and tone. Such is the case with La Colombe d’Or, a restaurant which was frequented regularly by artistic greats such as Picasso, Chagall, Modigliani, Matisse, Miro, Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Isadora Duncan, Yves Montand, Edith Piaf and the list goes on …
Interior of La Colombe d’Or featuring magnificent works of art
Why did this restaurant attract so many creative geniuses and why does it still serve as a mecca for the rich and famous? I suspect the artistic passions of the original owner, Paul Roux, who regularly accepted paintings in lieu of payment, gave birth to a tradition of artistic joie de vivre that is the hallmark of this captivating restaurant.
The village perche of Saint-Paul-de-Vence
But there’s more to the magic of La Colombe d’Or than simply art …. Picture a perfectly preserved Medieval village perched on a hillside … aah yes, another French village perché … simply a heartbeat away from the glorious Mediterranean on the magnifique Cote d’Azur. Just outside the Medieval walls of the village, with beautiful gardens and a commanding view of the valley below, lies a truly unique hotel, La Colombe d Or, which many have called the most romantic hotel in the world. This is the home of and the inspiration for this extraordinary restaurant which has inspired decades of artists and lovers. Over the years, artists have regularly left their mark by painting directly onto the walls or by offering a painting, sculpture or oeuvre d’art. The ambiance speaks of beauty, creativity, charm and romance.
So do the talents of the chef, Hervé Roy, live up to the restaurant’s legend? I don’t recall fresh oysters on the menu but otherwise … a resounding yes!
Les Hors d’Oeuvre Colombe d’Or with Charcuterie and Crudites
We began our luncheon with his classic entrée of Les hors d’oeuvres Colombe d’Or with charcuterie and were taken aback by the beauty, quality and quantity of the vast assortment of dishes that arrived. Each had its own special preparation, from grilled and marinated local eggplant and tomatoes to smoked fish, and each was prepared from fresh, local ingredients in traditional Provençal fashion. Freshly cut sausages and a big basket of farm fresh produce, including radishes and fennel, completed the experience. Many might have considered that first course a satisfying lunch in itself, but we had two more courses to come!
Quenelles de Saumon Frais
Fish was the theme of the main course. Our daughter selected fresh salmon quenelles which were sumptuous in a light béchamel sauce.
Aioli tout simple a la Morue fraiche et ses cinq legumes
Denis feasted on steamed fresh cod with 5 vegetables accompanied by a “simple aoli” sauce, and I enjoyed perfectly grilled fresh Mediterranean sea bream seasoned with fresh herbs and lemon. The freshness and quality of the ingredients needed no extra enhancement to be simply delicious beyond the assistance of a light, refreshing Cote de Provence Rosé.
For dessert we shared a country style French apple tart, prepared using Paul Roux’s mother’s recipe, and a dark chocolate cake. Both were equally satisfying.
A meal with generous portions, solicitous service, superb ingredients, perfection in preparation and charming presentations … in a magical, romantic and, most especially, artistic setting.
In the footsteps of Marc Chagall in Saint-Paul-de-Vence!
Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Highlights of our day in Saint-Paul-de-Vence:
La Colombe d’Or in Saint-Paul-de-Vence
*We had lunch at La Colombe d’Or in Saint-Paul-de-Vence. The founder of La Colombe d’Or, Paul Roux, liked to paint and as a result ended up attracting artists, writers, celebrities to his hotel, his restaurant and the hilltop village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence. From Picasso to F. Scott Fitzgerald, from Yves Montand to Ernest Hemingway, they all contributed to the world fame of this place. The inside walls of La Colombe d’Or really come to life with an incredible array of priceless art.
Inside restaurant at La Colombe d’Or in Saint-Paul-de-Vence
In an earlier post, I mentioned the story of the famous jealousy row which led Zelda Fitzgerald to throw herself off the parapet of the terrasse restaurant because of the attention which F. Scott Fitzgerald was giving to the famed ballet dancer, Isadora Duncan.
Terrasse restaurant at La Colombe d’Or with stone parapet made famous by Zelda Fitzgerald
Lunch on the terrasse was in itself an exceptional experience. Service was in a league by itself, as there were probably as many staff as patrons. As to the food, you should have seen the look on my daughter’s face when our appetizers arrived! Large saucissons with fifteen plates of assorted appetizers including black boudin, one of my favorites.
Hors d’Oeuvres at La Colombe d’Or
The rest of the meal was no less impressive, and we enjoyed the complimentary house mandarine grappa at the end.
In the afternoon, we took a themed private guide tour of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, titled “Sur les pas de Chagall in Saint-Paul-de-Vence” (In the footsteps of Chagall in Saint-Paul-de-Vence). Marc Chagall lived the last twenty years of his life in Saint-Paul-de-Vence and is buried in the cemetery there.
Marc Chagall painting shown where drawn in Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Chagall is noted for saying “I thank destiny for bringing me to the shores of the Mediterranean”.He had lived nearby in Vence since 1948 after he returned from the United States; he had been attracted to the area by Aime and Marguerite Maeght, who were his art dealers in Paris (as well as for Henri Matisse, Braque, Léger, Miró, Alexander Calder et Alberto Giacometti). Aime and Marguerite Maeght (pronounced like “mag”) had taken refuge in Vence during the second world war after a good friend of theirs, Jean Moulin, head of the French resistance, was arrested by the Gestapo. Today’s Fondation Maeght is a world famous museum in Saint-Paul-de-Vence.
An unexpected bonus, during our tour, was a stop at a chapel which an artist was in the process of completely decorating with wall paintings.
Our guide, Christophe, was extremely erudite and we thoroughly enjoyed being taken to the various spots where Chagall painted and hearing about each painting and the fabulous life of this great artist. Chagall went through various periods during his tumultuous life, but the theme of his paintings while in Saint-Paul-de-Vence seemed to be all about love, and they are marvelous pieces of art.
BonVoyageurs Tips:
*Take the 400 bus to Saint-Paul-de-Vence from the first stop, Albert 1er, so that you don’t have to worry about getting a seat on the bus. Today, the bus was standing room only as of the third stop on the route.
*Ask for a tour at the small tourist office right at the entrance to the walled city of Saint-Paul-de-Vence. If a tour is not already scheduled, they will schedule one for you; and the cost of 5 euros per person won’t break your bank!
